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Deer Park, WI

Wind is by far the greatest threat to my seedlings during the month of may.

Every year there seems to be that *one* day in the spring where the temp hits ~85 degrees and the south wind gusts to 40mph. Or an isolated thunderstorm, not more than a square mile in size, seems to know just where your vulnerable seedlings are rooted.

This presents a conundrum for the working (wo)man. Leave the houses tipped down, sheltering them from the breeze but cook the leaves?

Or spare the oven roast and let the rapidly developing elephant ears serve as mini-parachutes.

Many a transplant has met its demise in early May, having been flapped back and forth relentlessly to the point where the stem loses its integrity, keeling over in irreversible exasperation.

Too many premature deaths forced me to construct a simple yet effective solution: I cut a handful of 4" long chunks of 2x4 board. The top side of each wood chunk is stapled with retired carpet, just enough to cover the edges. One block is slid under one cotyledon of your developing transplant, just touching the plant's stem. A second block is slid under the opposite cotyledon, also snug against the stem. This essentially sandwiches the stem between the blocks. Such placement allows the cots to act like "stablizers" when the wind insists on tossing the plant around.

These blocks come in real handy as the plant develops late may/early june, notably as it becomes more and more top-heavy pre-flop. I'll continue to use these blocks to support the stem as the plant transitions into its flop.

In some circumstances, a block or two is necessary to support the stem arch as the plant grows into its flop. They are typically removed in July, when the plant is plenty strong to hold its own.

Hope this tip helps save a seedling from the ravages of wind. good luck

5/10/2012 9:36:33 PM

Deerfield, Michigan

I'm also having problems with the wind. Can you post a picture of what you made?
Thanks

5/11/2012 3:18:44 AM

Muddy Waters

The next time you see a door at the curb throw it in your trunk.lay it horizontal on the ground pound a couple 2x2s or metal stakes at least 12 inchs into soil.Place this about 3 feet south of your plant & 1 west if you can get 2 doors.This will buy you a couple weeks to a month to the plant gets established.If the door is 30 wide it gives you 60 inchs of protection of wind.I was told the height of wall is doubled for wind distance.Signed garbage picker.

5/11/2012 5:08:14 AM

Little-TON - Colorado

Joze...how thoZe old seedZ do?

5/11/2012 9:54:35 AM

Deer Park, WI

all 3 801's decided to take a permanent nap. :(

Picture of the blocking system described above forthcoming in my diary...

5/11/2012 10:20:11 AM

Canada

Go to any construction supplies stores I purchaced a 100 ft By 4 ft high silt fence it already has the stakes attached lay out hammer in steaks and for 30 bucks your done!! This year I'm gonna take mine down once vines are attached to ground with good tap roots for better airflow around plant Dave

5/11/2012 10:33:32 AM

Little-TON - Colorado

Sorry to hear about the 801's :(

5/11/2012 11:25:36 AM

Fairport,NY

Joze
Surrounding the "Pumpkin Huts" with a close circle of snow fence worked wonders for me last year. The fence cut the fierce winds so well the plants hardly noticed it;)
http://www.bigpumpkins.com/Diary/DiaryViewOne.asp?eid=157878

Hope it works as well for you

5/11/2012 4:49:52 PM

Tinykinville

well joe i have hoops surrounded by silt fence when that is not enough i got simple cheap cure. just put four stakes around plant and use suranwrap to make wind brake just right size it will only work for couple days but big deal for two bucks move stakes out farther and make another. works like a charm done it a number of times.

5/12/2012 6:59:24 AM

Ham Lake, Minnesota

Would saving some hay bales from the fall before help to be put around the plants?

5/12/2012 7:54:06 PM

Deer Park, WI

My diary now includes a photo of these carpeted blocks.

I agree with the contributors who suggest various types of wind-blocking fencing around the developing plant. I employ these tactics as well.

With these blocks, however, it is a low cost, low maintenence solution that provides contact stabilization for the plant.

A drawback of the close-perimeter wind fencing is that it needs to be moved as the plant grows. I value efficiency, as well as minimizing the amount of activity in and around the crown area. Not to mention the fact that wind fencing is not a guarantee for wind protection. I live on a knob in the open countryside. From my patch, it is a 3/4 mile wide open runway for the nastiest of breezes. As such, these are the tactics i've needed to develop to avoid that challenge.

5/14/2012 1:48:46 PM

Deer Park, WI

Diary link: http://www.bigpumpkins.com/Diary/DiaryView.asp?season=2012&grower=2770&action=L

5/14/2012 1:50:02 PM