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Little-TON - Colorado

I would imagine 100% would be too much, but what about really overdosing the innoculating, is there a saturation point? Too much of anything bad, but there has to be wiggle room here...

3/8/2012 10:39:37 AM

Piqua, Ohio

5lbs tilled in a 25x35 patch May 1st seems to be plenty, but that's what works for me. Putting it under each leaf node seems to be a waste of time in my opinion.

3/8/2012 1:41:36 PM

Little-TON - Colorado

We have grown some real decent fruit from our over juiced soil Ludwig. I beleive many more factorZ are involved, and much of our P is locked up. Tell you what Ludwig....howZ this for a bet...

I will bet my best effortZ this year out weighs your best effortZ at the weigh offs. My Fish mucking, Kelp slinging, JaredZ juicy juicy dirt full of wasted mycho & lotZ of fungus amoungus......WiZ will take you on....lol My pointy hat knowZ no boundZ. Let'Z post in our diaryZ Ludwig... Show it and grow it.......No more lip service... I like resultZ...

My seedZ go in mid April.

USA USA USA....

3/8/2012 2:02:13 PM

Piqua, Ohio

well said wiz, amelio is a real blow hard who's never grown pumpkins Ron and Dick Wallace are the guys to talk to. Definately get another opinion!

3/8/2012 3:24:21 PM

Little-TON - Colorado

You have your opinions Ludwig, but many other scientists disagree. People can say anything, but as us Americans say...Its time to $hit or get off the pot...

3/8/2012 4:25:29 PM

Seattle, WA

I can't understand Amelio's posts so I won't comment on them.

I wouldn't be too concerned about overdoing the mycorrhiza in your patch. However, it does seem like it could be a waste of money. 1 solid application around the roots when you plant should be sufficient. The mycorrhizae will grow as the roots grow as well.

High P is only as issue with initial infection/colonization from what I understand. Though my other research has shown that many people over-apply P at rates significantly higher than most plants require.

3/8/2012 4:34:23 PM

Little-TON - Colorado

ONe thing that Ludwig has done for me has made me go out and research P, I know my K is quite high, both coming from adding copius amounts of horse manure....I have never applied chemZ to my soil, and watch what I put in...slow and steady...you know... BUt our soil is different calcareous....clay and high in Ph, it is what it is....Be different if I fertigated...which I will do this year.....so I will really have juicy dirt...With clay the soil doesnt perculate as well as a sandy loam always washing away nutrients... I plan on using soluable Mycho and granular as well, I like fresh and will use up all my old as well... guess we will see at the end of the year... proof is in the pudding

3/8/2012 4:51:53 PM

Little-TON - Colorado

My boron is high too, dont add that, zinc is high because of the wires we use. We have added calcium, maganese, but everything else is foliar.....alfalfa pellets, coffee groundZ, I have worms like you dont believe...

3/8/2012 4:53:28 PM

Redmond, Washington; U.S.A.

I had dinner with some people in Vegas that distribute products for erosion control. They mentioned H2O soluble Myco. I am curious about it again. I use a lot of granular. I can tell the granular spreads well because I can see it propigate and spread through the soil in my greenhouses. P.S. Manure Man has more worms than you do Wiz. HaHA

3/8/2012 5:20:25 PM

Little-TON - Colorado

Yo MonZster... Check out the RTI Soluable... he iZ whom you spoke of...Ill be watering my main vine this year at every node....I used to have no worms...I read how they too contribute to the P in my soil

3/8/2012 5:27:05 PM

Redmond, Washington; U.S.A.

Cool. Thanks for the heads up. I did'nt know that RTI had a soluble product. I am interested in researching about.

3/8/2012 5:54:38 PM

Upa Creek, MO

MG, I used a liquid form of Mycos in a product called "Thrive". I used it on some house plants... not sure if it worked, but very easy to use as you just dillute and pour.

3/8/2012 7:10:10 PM

Minnesota

I used mycoblast, it is a liquid on my house plants along with soilblast, my houseplants responded well to it.

3/8/2012 8:09:48 PM

Breslau, Ontario, Canada

I used 60 lbs of it last year.
I'm sure it was mostly a waste. but I call it insurance.
This year, I will use some granular in my pro-mix and at transplant time. After that I will switch to a soluble form.
How long does it take for the Myco to become active (alive) once put in the soil, and how long is it viable after this?
Does it become vialble as soon as it gets wet?
Are we wasting it by burying it at the nodes? How long does it take roots to form and come in contact with the myco at the nodes???

3/8/2012 10:29:50 PM

Redmond, Washington; U.S.A.

Good info. Thanks guys

3/8/2012 10:38:33 PM

Boise City, Oklahoma, USA

Using RTI dry; some in starting mix, planting hole, backfill dirt... and a pinch at each node as I buried vines... seemed to do the job. 650-750 sq foot plant, 2.5 to 3# per plant. (I am a little skintzy with it but not by much). 5# per plant is a little overkill... the way I dole it out.

This year is a combo of dry and wet, experimenting; to see what does what (RTI dry vs Great White wet).

3/9/2012 4:54:29 AM

Muddy Waters

I dont think your supposed to till it in a big area like that.The leaf node pinch is the way to go.Wizzy I will let you know in October if levels can get toxic.Not sure yet.I guess to much of anything can be toxic, even water.

3/9/2012 7:44:36 AM

Georgetown, Ontario

Great question John-D I would love to know that as well ;)

3/9/2012 8:23:25 AM

South East

http://www.parco1.com/text/mycorrhiza/Mycorrhiza%20Primer.pdf

3/9/2012 9:39:45 AM

Little-TON - Colorado

I love this statement...:

Soil with little inoculum selects against most natives and
favors the plant species that do not need to become mycorrhizal early
in life.
These plants are better known as weeds.

3/9/2012 10:13:05 AM

Little-TON - Colorado

WOW nice read....12 years old...Great stuff. I need more mycho to eat my Pee's......

3/9/2012 10:28:51 AM

Seattle, WA

If you're looking for soluble, try searching for "micronized," that's typically how I see it labeled, or I suppose if it's already in liquid form.

Personally, I would feel better applying directly to roots during a transplant rather than applying a liquid with an above ground watering. If the mycorrhiza is 4 mm for the root tip, it will stay dormant, it needs direct contact (it doesn't move through the soil).

OkieGal, The Great White product is coming from Mycorrhizal Applications if you want to cut out a middle man that's essentially rebranding from what I understand (the companies that market to hydro shops tend to have much higher markups that regular garden or ag products).

3/9/2012 5:18:43 PM

Boise City, Oklahoma, USA

Yes and the GWG has Great White as a sponsor and there will be additional prize money if you buy and use their product to grow a 300# watermelon.

I am always looking for ways to use product effectively to get what I can get out of the genetics of what I plant... more yield, bigger fruit, etc.

I am trying the product first before investing in massive amounts :) Yes I seen where I could get the same thing from M.A. ... Thanks.

3/9/2012 6:06:53 PM

Muddy Waters

Im buying my Great White at a feed store only 30.99 a jar.Its not a question of cost.Great White is spending thousands to Sponsor GWG.In return I & many others will use there Great White for the first time ever.I grew the 260.5 with Plant Success granular one of Great Whites cheaper versions.I think we will have great results from a Good product.Time will tell.Im not worried about a few dollars more,with all the work I put into this Sport Im not pinching pennies or taking chances.I have talked to several neutral parties that own Hydro stores,They have told me Great White is one of the better ones out there.Lets give Great White a chance,Competition is healthy & good for the economy.Good luck in 2012!

3/9/2012 6:52:29 PM