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Belgium

I have been wondering about this since I started growing few years ago . Each year my stem of my pumpkin got rot without any dammage on pumpkin or any other vines. Could this be a result of fusarium or is it caused by something else? this is really a problem for me. The problem shows up when my pumpkin is about 30-40 days old and few weeks later it totally shuts down or grows very slow .
thanks

12/17/2011 5:48:58 AM

Menomonie, WI ([email protected])

I think the soft stems are part of the characteristics of C Maxima genus. The plant has achieved its goal...produce a fruit with viable seeds. It then slows down and coasts. This is where the kelp and everything else we spray extends this un natural growth. Fusarium would show up in the vegetation.

12/17/2011 12:40:08 PM

Menomonie, WI ([email protected])

Temperature and hours of sunlight are crucial

12/17/2011 12:41:18 PM

Belgium

stem itself is hard just outher layer is rotting and slowely moving inwards

12/17/2011 12:51:36 PM

Frankfort Ohio

i have same problem etm looking forward to comments

12/17/2011 1:11:37 PM

Menomonie, WI ([email protected])

Do you use a fungicide on the stem?

12/17/2011 3:16:01 PM

Belgium

I do and it doesn't work at all tried everything there is

12/17/2011 3:34:40 PM

Omaha, Ne.

linus do u spray fungicide on the stem? or on the pumpkin?

12/17/2011 3:47:19 PM

Upa Creek, MO

I had 3 plants last year and 1 fruit set on each. The middle plant (1059 VMG) got the stem rot too. From day 50-90ish, I did about 6 surgeries to remove the rot. Captan didn't help. All 3 plants had the same spray schedule with all other fungicides and the other 2 had perfect stems, so I'm wondering if it is genetics.

12/17/2011 4:34:29 PM

Belgium

all my plants had the same for the past 4 years so doubt if it will be genetics

12/17/2011 4:36:38 PM

Germany/Bavaria

I think the issue is a mix of the high air humidity in a greenhouse and probably a lack of airflow.

12/17/2011 5:12:21 PM

Upa Creek, MO

I don't know then, ETM. To go off Linus' 2nd comment and John's, it was very hot and humid here this year. Plus, I get no light on the patch after 2pm so the whole area can stay wet\damp for days.

I'd be curious to hear if growers out of hot, but not humid areas like Arizona, Texas or New Mexico have these issues.

12/17/2011 5:30:44 PM

France

I grow in greenhouses too and never had a problem with stems rot. I don't use anything on the stem.

12/17/2011 5:44:11 PM

Menomonie, WI ([email protected])

Do you have air flow around the stem...the stem is soft but should not rot.

12/17/2011 7:06:06 PM

Roselle, IL [email protected]

I put a fan near the stem. It seems to help. I have also had pumpkins that have slowed in growth rate and then the stem seems to rot a lot faster

12/17/2011 7:55:01 PM

Lloydminster/AB

I had it once. In a greenhouse high humidity and temp. I slowed it down with bleach and fans but if the weigh off had been two weeks later, it may not have made it. Since then I've made sure to keep the stems dry. Fungicides had no effect so it is something I've been very concerned about.

12/17/2011 11:47:12 PM

The bottom of New Jersey

I am pretty sure that a lot of the soft rots that affect our stems are bacterial, that is why fungicides would be ineffective but things like bleach and peroxide work better. Also why high humidity, bad air flow and high temperatures make them show up and spread rapidly.

12/18/2011 8:24:35 AM

Rhode Island

for many many years ron and i had problems with stem issues.
this past year not a one issue to be had.
i can only attribute it to the additional soil drenches of nutrient and disease control additives.
we have always kept the area around the stem exposed to sunlight,always dusted the stem area with fungicides and also kept the stems as dry as possible when it rains however,i think the addition of those drenches helped a lot as well.

12/19/2011 6:55:57 AM

Muddy Waters

Ive never had stem issues in the screen house,other then a splitting stem.I have had the rotting stem outside the house.I hoping Pap is right as 2012 will be my first year with soil drench's and using Great White.I think its in the soil (disease).

12/19/2011 7:56:21 AM

Rhode Island

I,ve used Peroxide and a little bleach before the problem starts,,,, the last 2 years ,,,,, never had a problem,, plus I keep pumpkin covered when rain is forcasted.

12/19/2011 9:23:51 AM

Lymington UK

Stuart and I have this problem in the past and we put a small fan blowing over the stem and it dries up within a day. We feel it is something to do with the stem splitting and dividing as it gets bigger, almost like a bark. As the stem grows and splits sap is released which left, tends to rot back into the stem,try putting a fan on it and I think you will be happy with the results.
Ian

12/19/2011 9:42:07 AM

Joliet, IL

Ian has it right in my opinion. Just like the stump, the stem takes on a woodier fissured texture as it matures. Nooks and crannies and small fissures are a prime spot for rot to set up. Could be bacterial or fungal decay rot that has set up on a sapping fissured area or an irregular cranny shaped like a bowl on the stem that holds water longer. Sometimes removal of a leaf or tendril early on leads to a prime spot for moisture to pool in later on as the stem matures. Keep an eye on the stem for the collection areas and trim excess material of an old tendril leaf base so no water pools. Even if you cover your pumpkins and the stem is protected from rain, dew will still collect in these nooks and crannies. Careful visual inspection and feeling under the stem on the bottom is needed. A small stem fissure weeping sap needs immediate cleaning in my book. Use a sterile knife and a toothbrush to remove any browning that shows down to green healthy tissue. Then use 10 percent bleach to kill bacterial rot and some napkins to pad the area and wipe it clean. Fan it dry, followed by a captan or sulfur dusting for fungal rot spores, and keep dry. Continue as needed until you stop it from progressing. If it a disease like gummy stem blight and in the plant, then proper diagnosis and analysis needs to be done to figure a way to prevent it the following season. If it keeps showing up on a high percentage year in and year out, send in a tissue sample.

12/19/2011 11:19:43 AM

Upa Creek, MO

Thanks for the input everybody.

12/19/2011 12:13:54 PM

Joliet, IL

I have also had a tap root base on the main on the topside near the stem junction rot out on me. The small round buldge of a tap root that never formed ended up oozing and rotting for what ever reason. I had to chase it inward all season and there was actually a hole all the way through by the end of the season. With a lot of work I still managed to save the stem and the pumpkin and get it to scale to produce the 1209 shenoha. The healed area around the hole grew so big and gnarley and tumor like it was silly. Here is a pic of the area. If a problem is identified early enough, it can be treated. I set up extension cords to each pumpkin early on and leave them there knowing most likely I will need to put a fan on the stem sooner or later. Last year in the high heat and humidity I left the fans run continuously blowing on each stem starting in late july/ early august to help expel heat trapped under the shade tarps and to keep the stems dry at the same time. Preventative dusting of captan was used on each stem regularly also cuz conditions last year were ripe for rot.

http://www.bigpumpkins.com/Diary/DiaryViewOne.asp?eid=141283

12/19/2011 12:24:01 PM