General Discussion
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Subject: Cindy in LittleRock,WA
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From
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Location
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Message
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Date Posted
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| Donkin |
nOVA sCOTIA
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I was wondering how the pvc on your hoophouse is held secure on the sides.(april 24 diary post)If you could post a few pics of the design in your diary or email me a few pics it would be greatly appreciated.Thanks Carl. [email protected]
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5/10/2011 12:41:25 PM
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| C2k |
Littlerock, WA
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Hi Carl, Sorry about the late reply; I only check the message boards about 1x week. I used some PVC snap clamps this year that I bought from Joel Holland (hollandsgiants.com). They hold really securely. All they are are about 4" long pieces of slit-open PVC that are slightly bigger diameter than the ribs (which are 1/2")Last year I simply used clear packaging tape and it held all season just fine instead of the snap clamps. It took a little while to remove the plastic at the end of the season off the end ribs. Hope that helps, and I'll try to get a pic on my diary soon. -Cindy :)
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5/16/2011 3:05:18 PM
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| Donkin |
nOVA sCOTIA
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I was also wondering if your cloche uprights are sitting in sauna filled with cement? What is keeping them upright? I'm trying to come up with some ideas for next year.Thanks for your reply. Carl
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5/16/2011 3:48:51 PM
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| Donkin |
nOVA sCOTIA
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Should read sauna tubes.
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5/16/2011 3:49:27 PM
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| C2k |
Littlerock, WA
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OK, here is what I did: I got 2 2x6's that were 8 foot long and buried them 30 inches deep and 16 feet apart. They're just in the dirt and tamped down well. Then I got 2 hangers from a horse tack catalogue to hang on the top of each of the 2x6's. I spanned the distance with a 16 foot long 2x2 and hung that in the metal hanger. Then, I got 6 20-foot pieces of schedule-40 1/2" PVC and arranged them evenly over the top of the upright. Once I got them where I wanted them, I pounded 6 3-foot pieces of 1/2" rebar on each side of the upright (about 24" down)and slid the PVC over the rebar. Then I took a 25'X25' piece of 6 mil plastic sheeting and pulled it over the structure. I rolled up the excess on the bottom and shoveled dirt along the edge to secure it. Then I went to the other side and did the same; this helps to stretch the plastic as well. I also do this on each end. Then I trim around the ends about 1 inch from the PVC rib with scissors and use snap clamps or packaging tape to secure the sheeting onto the last rib. Finally, I secure the end "doors" with extra large binder clips that you can find at an office supply store. Here is the website to find the 4" metal tack hangers that I use to hold the 16 foot 2x2 that spans between the 2 uprights: http://www.sstack.com/Stable_RacksOrganizers_TackBridle-Racks/Easy-Up-Handy-Utility-Hook/
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5/17/2011 12:07:15 AM
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| C2k |
Littlerock, WA
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Oh yeah, just for a little extra security, in a couple of the hoop houses if the 2x2 looked a little saggy because of the weight, I put a 6' metal T-post under the center just to give me a little piece of mind.
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5/17/2011 12:09:11 AM
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| Donkin |
nOVA sCOTIA
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Perfect!I like your design for when the plant outgrows the hoophouse.It's only a matter of removing the plastic and letting the vines grow out to whatever distance you like.There is no wooden frame on the bottom to remove and once the plastic is removed the pvc frame can stay where it is.Thank you for some very interesting idea's Cindy.Good luck this season. Carl
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5/17/2011 11:48:29 AM
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| Total Posts: 7 |
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