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Hi All,

Was wondering if I move to a new patch 20 feet up hill(that has never been planted in)If there would still be a root disease in the new patch... or should I move it another 20 uphill feet just to be safe? Also I sent off my soil test and should have the disease results soon.

Thanks!

Martin

7/31/2009 10:22:32 PM

Cincinnati, OH

Logic would point to your soil test for answers...depends on the root disease you speak of. What is the cause? Is it in the soil or the habit? See...i'm learnin' y'all. Even a rookie like me can offer.....um....not advise....but logic.

7/31/2009 10:47:31 PM

Cincinnati, OH

*****habitat *****is what I meant to type.

7/31/2009 11:05:11 PM

[email protected]

Soil borne disease had to find your patch somehow so it could already be in the new area. Then again, it is much more likely to move (with water, wind, etc) down hill than up hill.

7/31/2009 11:17:19 PM

Bloomington, IN

I would think soil dwelling insects could spread it. Maybe even mice or moles, or even ground hogs if you have them. I don't know for sure though.

7/31/2009 11:56:18 PM

[email protected]

Feet, shovels, tillers, rakes, critters, rain, wind, etc.

The fact HE HAS TWO SEPERATE AREAS IS HUGE. One can always be resting.

8/1/2009 2:17:15 AM

Ohio

Listen to Tremor, The man always has great advice,, I have taught him right over the years,,,, aint that right Tremor?,,,LOL!

8/1/2009 4:28:18 AM

Long Island,New York

Tremor....why can't you just find a plant antagonistic to fusarium etc and put us all out of our misery? !!

8/1/2009 7:06:11 AM

Dillsburg, PA

Hey Martin, I'm also in southern PA- north of gettysburg. I moved into a new place three years ago. I tend to lose about 50% of my plants. This year with low temps and now rain everyday I'm getting pretty worried. I just except the fact that some of my plants are going down.

8/1/2009 7:37:37 AM

Colorado Springs, CO

Martin,......Does 20 ft. UPhill mean that you anticipate better drainage of that soil, or more slope from which excess water can flow (down ans away), or a situation whereby less water will collect and saturate the soil in the (current) patch ? Your soil needs air too. Dig some test holes and scrutinize any soil differences.

You have not been very specific in describing the "root disease" that afflicts you now. Is it simply root rot or some "black" root fungal infection ?

Improve percolation, amend so as to allow more air to co-exist at-depth, and feed the soil with microbe-enhancing materials like cracked corn meal, dry molasses, alfalfa meal, and kelp meal. Over-populate the soil with the good microbes and good fungi.....and the bad guys will lose the battle of attrition. Soil biology is far more effective at correcting problems than soil chemistry.

Your current plot just might be "tired" and depleted. Expose some new soil in that uphill location and begin NOW to slowly and progressively build and prep that soil smartly through these last month of the season, add compost and worms to it, and then put it to rest for the winter without any further disturbances till you know the surface has thawed and your pitchfork can penetrate easily to at least 6 to 8 inches.

Chuck the "chemicals".....go organic. Good luck.

8/1/2009 12:57:06 PM

Ohio

Glenn, Tremor has been trying to figure that out for the last 3 years or so, you ever read the articles he wrote about that nasty desease?,, What am I talking about,, of course you did,,,lol

8/1/2009 11:13:03 PM