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Upstate S.C.

My PH. is around 5.4 and is in need of lime. Manure has already been brought in and now it's time for the lime. MY question is this. I went to the store today to get the lime and I am gonna get about 200LBS, of dolimite. The guy there said save your money and get this new FAST ACTING lime. He said I would only need one bag and I acts as soon as moisture is put down. Should I go with the fast acting lime or the regular dolimite lime. Thanks I will by it tommorow.

10/22/2008 4:54:46 PM

[email protected]

By "fast acting" the merchant might be talking about hydrated lime or a material like Solu-Cal where conventional lime has been treated to a TOG organic chelating agent.

Solu-Cal can be reduced by a 3:1 or 4:1 margin.

10/22/2008 5:36:09 PM

I assume you have done a full soil test to see what you need (beyond pH)? If your magnesium levels are fine and you just need to raise pH, calpril tends to cost less than dolopril (at least where I live).

Beyond cost, something to consider is what you have in terms of application equipment. A form of lime which is cheaper overall in treating your area, but which you cannot apply evenly due to equipment limitations, is no bargain.

10/22/2008 5:49:54 PM

Rhode Island

we always use calsidic ( i may have spelled that wrong)lime, not dolometic. the plant and pumpkins need the calcium
pap

10/23/2008 7:19:27 AM

Wi

Calcitic lime has almost no magnesium compared to dolomitic. Before choosing a lime know what you need or don't need for magnesium. We are very high in MG here so always use calcitic.

10/23/2008 9:07:13 AM

[email protected]

I agree regarding calcitic (also called "high cal" lime). We also use calcitic or SoluCal since that's what its made from. Here in New England we run the risk of elevating magnesium too high if we use dolomitic lime. This can block other nutrients (Iron, etc) which corrects on problem (pH & Calcium) while creating a new one.

Post your full soil test results & we can get more specific.

10/23/2008 9:24:48 AM

Ohio

Not to hijack your thread Trooper, but to add to it with a question,
how long does it take for Calcitic lime verses Dolomitic lime to get in your soil to take affect?
Do they both take around the same time or does one type take longer then the other?

Reason I ask is because I have heard there is some lime (not sure of the name) take 6 months to a year to get into your soil to take affect.

10/23/2008 9:41:19 AM

Ham Lake, Minnesota

yeah no dolomite if you're at 250ppm of mag or higher already.

10/23/2008 10:16:03 AM

Upstate S.C.

First of all let me say thanks to everyone for there help. Second, yes I have done a full soil test from A&L west labs. It does appear there are more eliments that my garden needs and the fast acting lime would not effect those like the D-Lime will, plue the fast acting lime is almost pulverized, which is very hard to spread THANKS.

10/23/2008 2:30:50 PM

Upstate S.C.

However here is my soil test results

Organic Matter is 2.0
Nitogen NO3-N34
Phosphorus Week Bray 81
Phosphorus NAHCO3p 59
Potassium 174
magnesium 108
calcium 660
sodium 23
sulfur 32
Zinc3.3.3
PH. is 5.4

I have already put down 20 yards of manure down on a 2700 Sq foot patch.

10/23/2008 3:11:17 PM

Garden State Pumpkins

pelletized versus pulverized...I belive Steve once said that the pelletized actually would assimulate faster then the dust..my worm guy said stick with the dust..I still add some leaves for the OM.

10/23/2008 7:49:23 PM

South Bloomfield, Ohio

Calcium, or "sweet", lime in pellet form applied in the fall will be effective around planting time in May.

10/23/2008 7:54:19 PM

Upstate S.C.

Alex, Pulverized is more appliable for verimicomposting than in a garden. I belive.

10/23/2008 9:06:52 PM